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Viewing 15 posts - 31 through 45 (of 52 total)
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  • in reply to: Using aromatic tea to make hydrosol #4354

    I think zest would work quite well as a hydrosol as it does have a high % of aromatics. Try making a strong infusion of Zest and pouring

    a 30ml shot over ice, top up with carbonated water. Put your hydrosol in a mister bottle and lightly spray your iced tea. Quite magical – we call it the plant buzz 🙂

    in reply to: Column still on gas hob and…. #4324

    Hi Steve

    The still I am using has its own element, which has a low high – it just simmers, hence a steady drip. You have a 5L column, are you using one of our hotplates? How are you heating your still? If the distillate is running, you could turn the heat down to get a steady drip. You will find as you go through the distillation, the drip will become weaker. This is a good time to turn the heat up. At this stage, you will be distilling more water than alcohol, which will slow down the rate. It’s also a sign you are moving into the tails, which can have some nice flavours. Try collecting this part in 50ml beakers. Keep tasting and checking if it will become watery and unpleasant, and you want to stop the distillation before this happens.

    in reply to: Column still on gas hob and…. #4249

    Hi Steve

    The thermometers don’t need to be calibrated – and on a small still and if you are making gin its not as important to be checking temps whereas on the larger stills is important when distilling spirits from a ferment or wine.

     

    in reply to: Traditional Alembic Copper Still and Maceration #3559

    You could macerate overnight which will give you a bolder flavour or if you want something lighter and delicate not at all. Its great to have a small still and do small batches and experiement. Take notes each time of what you did and then add tasting notes. That why you can adjust each time and make the perfect blend 🙂

     

    in reply to: When to add the fresh rhubarb juice #2919

    Hi – We don’t recommend using an NS that’s more than 40% abv  – I suggest putting 1L of 40% NS in the pot on your first run. If you stop at 400ml, it will be about 80%abv. You can take another 50 to 100ml if the flavour is still good. Take a final accurate measure of your total yield using a measuring cylinder. Pur some into a 100ml cylinder and check the abv. Using the online calculator, see how much water to add to proof it down to 40 or 42 abv (whichever you prefer). Add your rhubarb juice to the water to proof or dilute your gin. It will be delicious Im sure

     

    in reply to: Type of pump and hose #2782

    Hi Helene – so glad you enjoyed the course! The hose doesn’t come into contact with the distillate – so any type will do. We use fountain pumps, clear flexible plastic hoses you can buy at hardware stores or wherever you find plumbing supplies. You could also ask them about submersible fountain pumps. If you’re having problems sourcing them where you live we have these to purchase on our sister site

    Electric Recirculating Water Pump & Hose 20-100 L Stills

     

    in reply to: Eau de vie temperature and time #2744

    Hi Bonnie
    The thermometers on these small stills are not always necessary. The alcohol comes at the highest % at the beginning of the distillation and then transitions into a
    higher % of water, which needs a higher temp. So yes, turn it up. It should take about 1.5 hours. Im sure your long distillation gave a great result though 🙂

    Hi Sharon – I put the juniper on the bottom sieve plate with the coriander and roots and cassia – so the aromatics with a dense plant matrix. They can do with a bit of cooking 🙂 I like to put my citrus peel and any leafy more delicate aromatics up the top. The ones that don’t need as much cooking – make sense. But – feel free to explore and experiment. That’s what makes a great distiller and a great gin. Suggest you make notes however so you remember how you did that fantastic blend that everybody loved!

    Hi again Chris – For a gin distillation like the one in our course (with an appliance still) the spirit will come out of the still at around 80% ABV (that’s 160 proof) so yes, you do dilute it with water before drinking — it’s called proofing. There’s an online calculator in the course notes that’s easy to use. Let us know if you have trouble with the dilution.

    ******
    If you’re working with very high ABV neutral spirit at the beginning of this process, then yes, you will also need to water that down before putting it into the pot and running a gin distillation. You can make (and buy) neutral spirit with an ABV in the 90% range, which needs to be proofed back (meaning watered down) to 40% before putting it in the pot. We advise never going higher than that 40% starting ABV for a spirit distillation for safety reasons. Higher ABV alcohol is very flamable and can be a hazard.

    in reply to: Condenser Water Temp and Water Added Amount #2620

    Hi Chris – thanks for your lovely feedback, so pleased you are enjoying our courses. I think Im always harping on about guidelines. You are right about your fresh rose, the x 3 just doesn’t work for soft petals that already hold a lot of water in their plant matrix. Less is better for rose and the wet sponge technique. good starting place until you find the right balance.
    My theory with Rose is, as long as there is enough water for it not to burn, that’s enough.

    We will be running a course on zero ABV beverages (currently in the works). You can start by using your hydrosols as the spirit replacement and finding nice complimentary mixers.

    in reply to: quintessence questions burning and maceration #2470

    If you put all the plant matter in the pot with the alcohol and water, do you get burning at the bottom of the pot during the distillation? .
    If it doesn’t burn does that mean I can use a maceration technique to make gin and distill with the botanicals in the pot without fear of it burning ?

    As you are only taking 400ml of max, its unlikely you will get a burn. You can always suspend your more sticky botanicals, such as fresh citrus peel in a muslin bag. Avoid using powdered plant material as this is likely to burn.

    If you are macerating all your botanicals, I would suggest putting the lighter ones in a muslin bag – citrus, leafy material and any finer materials. Robust botanicals like the roots and seeds like to dance around freely in the spirit.

    Guido Mase has written a wonderful book called DIY bitters. He has detailed guidelines on how much plant material to spirit to use – you may find it helpful.

    in reply to: quintessence questions burning and maceration #2469

    Do you use the same 200g quantity of botanical for each quintessence, or do you use less for stronger botanicals like rosemary or pepper ?

    Again, it’s a guideline. The botanicals are of course all shapes and sizes. Some store their aromatics deep inside the plant matrix, like coriander and the roots. Others store them on the surface such as the Lamaeciae family of mints, basil, and salvias – that’s a huge family!

    Another guide is to use 1:5 which is 1 part botanical to 5 parts spirit. You will find some botanicals absorb all the spirit and you may need to add some more. Unfortunately, there are no hard and fast rules when we are working with plants, just guidelines, and engaging our senses.

    in reply to: quintessence questions burning and maceration #2468

    Watching the making of quintessences if I understood correctly.. all the material is put into the pot with the alcohol and water to dilute it to 36% ABV.
    This produces about 400ml of quintessences.
    Its important to use your sense of taste and smell and use the 400ml measure as a guideline. I rarely take more than 400ml but I often take less, especially with the more delicate florals. What you are aiming for is a clean bright aroma/flavour that reflects the aromatics of the botanical.

    in reply to: quintessence questions burning and maceration #2467

    Hi Gerard – Im sorry for the delay getting to your questions. I answered them at length and I think they were swallowed up. Maybe to long so this time I will break them up into bite-sized pieces!

    in reply to: Scaling up botanical ratios #2270

    (Replying to Wembley2012)—Scaling up can be tricky. The most efficient way is to do a sacrificial run using the minimum of NS possible. You will then know if the botanical load is too much, creating cloudiness. If it is cloudy, you can always redistil and use it for other purposes. Is the 100lt a pot still?

Viewing 15 posts - 31 through 45 (of 52 total)
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